first day back at the artlog

Yesterday Peter, Jack and I returned from a week of seeing in the New Year in Oxfordshire, where we enjoyed wonderful company with friends old and new, cooked, read, walked in the countryside and had two happy visits to one of my favourite places, the Pitt Rivers Museum. Overnight Ty Isaf has been merrily whirring and clicking away, the boiler-room pumping and the Aga powering-up to cooking-temperature. When we first moved here there was no central heating and the house was almost unendurable in the winters, so I love it now when I hear the radiators surging with the hot water that makes us cosy.

On the sitting-room mantelpiece horses canter over leaf-strewn plates,  joining the ranks of painted blackbirds and staffordshire beasts. Evidence, if any were needed as our kitchen is groaning with the stuff,  of my 2012 love affair with decorated enamelware.

This is a brief post to say hello and wish everyone a Happy New Year. Let’s all strive to make it a good one. Here at the Artlog you will find new painting and exhibition projects, plus book collaborations and work on The Mare’s Tale at the Mid Wales Chamber Orchestra about to begin. Exciting, busy times.

sleepiness

I have strep throat, I’m sweating like a steeple-runner and feel as though I’ve been kicked in the kidneys. I haven’t had a cold or the flu in the longest time but have succumbed in the past few days to something that has knocked me flat. So I’m having a day in bed to try and get over it faster. Need sleep!

I love our blue bedroom high up in Ty Isaf.  Outside the trees are restless in the wind that cools my skin through the raised sash, and the shadows of swallows whiz across the floor and walls as the birds feed their young in the nests under the eaves just above the windows. Jack is with me, curled on the bed-throw. Not for the first time in our lives together he is out of sorts at the same time as I am, though the reason for his being poorly is because he wrenched a claw to the point where it’s facing the wrong way round and will probably have to drop off before the injury can heal properly. He’s done this before in the helter-skelter of vigorous play, and it will sort itself out in time. But for the moment he’s sleeps a lot, rouses himself to look at me woefully and then sleeps more. He only wanted a plate of yoghurt for breakfast, which is his usual way of telling me that he’s feeling delicate.

I don’t often take to my bed when unwell, but when I do I like to fall back on familiar and well-loved reading. Nothing too challenging. Today I have the supernatural tales of Robert Aickman to hand, and a couple of long-cherished and dog-eared Sebastien Japrisot paperbacks, The Lady in a Car with Glasses and a Gun and Trap for Cinderella. Comfort reading! Outside all is quiet. Our neighbour Tom cut his fields last week, and so there are no tractors to disturb the peace. Time to snooze.

ty isaf, then and now: part one

Last month I received an unexpected  letter from Martin Ferguson Smith, Emeritus Professor of Classics, Durham University. In it Martin explained that he had seen my two Artlog posts about the author Rose Macaulay living at Ty Isaf in the early years of the twentieth century, and he was writing because his late father was her first cousin, his mother being a younger sister of Rose’s father, George Campbell Macaulay. He added that he had a collection of glass-slide photographs taken by his grandmother’s brother, William Herrick Macaulay, among which were six made during the time the family lived here. Martin kindly offered to send me modern transparencies generated from the original glass-plates, and from those we’ve been able to make images that with his kind permission, I’m posting here.

Below: Ty Isaf from the paddock. The photograph is undated, but the Macaulays moved here on December 5th 1901 and departed on October 3rd 1906. Chicken-houses and runs can be seen where today we have a double loose-box for the horses. The woodland behind the house is made up almost entirely of larch, whereas today it’s largely deciduous.

Martin writes of the photograph below:

I expect that the boy playing croquet on the tennis court is Will rather than Aulay. If the year is 1904, it must be, because Aulay went off to India in Feb 1904, but the exact date of the photo is not known. 

(Martin later confirmed the young man as Will, the name having been found written on the original glass-plate.)

I reply:

‘The terraced bed to the tennis lawn is a revelation in your photograph. When we arrived that had been completely covered in mature conifers. We cut them down and dug over and reconditioned the slope, re-terracing it and building a rustic path that now winds down through mounds of rock-roses, euphorbia, irises and poppies. The pretty tennis pavilions have long gone, and we’d hesitate to recreate them because to do so we’d have to remove a number of lovely flowering trees. So the space is more rustic and plant-based these days, softer around the edges. When we arrived there were hideous concrete-paver-steps marching down to the grass. We removed them and added the path curving down to emerge further along the lawn, unknowingly tracing the route of the formal terrace visible in your photograph. However we see now that there were straight steps that pre-dated the concrete ones, something we hadn’t suspected. If the Macaulays were to return I like to think that while they’d find the garden changed, they’d recognise the topography and would approve the planting. It’s restful and beautiful, and though the tennis pavilions are gone, Will would still find good use for his croquet mallet, for the game is still played here.

 Martin writes of the photograph below:

The young woman standing with her left hand on the fence and looking away from the camera is, I guess, Margaret, but possibly Jean. I am sure she is not Rose. 

(The identity of Margaret, too, has been confirmed from her name on the original glass-plate.)

Here may be read parts one and two of my earlier Rose Macaulay posts. For the real Rose Macaulay enthusiasts I recommend Professor Smith’s recent edition of a previously unknown collection of  her letters, Dearest Jean, published by Manchester University Press and available HERE.

More photographs from Professor Smith’s Macaulay family collection will be posted here next week.

an early spring

This morning I looked out of a window to see Tiberius the alpha-male pheasant under the apple tree on the turning-circle, strutting in full mating ritual around the slender ‘black’ female that has been his companion of the past few months. (She appears black from a distance, but at close quarters her colouring is a complex arrangement of graphite and navy blue/bronze, with the female pheasant ‘patterning’ in place but rendered shadowy like a black brocade.) I don’t know what happened to Tiberius’s vast family of last year. His many wives and  offspring… there were upward of fifteen pheasants at morning feeding times… slowly disappeared over the long summer until only Tiberius remained. Foxes and perhaps a polecat, together with a ginger and white puss that visits here from time to time are the suspects. Tiberius himself lost all his tail feathers at some point, and so he too had undergone a close call. Now the cycle begins again, and I wonder what the result of this mating with a dark beauty may be.

Down in the herbaceous borders there’s a heavenly scented viburnum that has been in flower of some sort since last spring. Even now a single tiny blossom is holding on despite the winds, giving up the perfume of powdery Turkish delight. Daffodils that last year didn’t arrive until March are spearing the turf, and buds everywhere are well-advanced. The hellebores are coming into glory, though my favourite ‘black’ variety was set back by being nibbled last year and is looking rather wan. Weather-wise anything could happen yet, but I sincerely hope that we’ve escaped another harsh winter. The last one was so vicious and so long that it made life here very hard, and I could live without a repeat of it.

Today our neighbours Cathryn and John Warren came bearing treasures, crossing from Craig-y-Bwch by the footbridge that we all built (though John did by far the lion’s share) and braving the mud of our hoof-churned horse-paddock to arrive at the front-door with Christmas cake, sloe gin and medlar jelly. (The latter two now gleaming like jewels in the sunlight on our sitting-room window seat.) Cathryn announced that she’d been intrigued by news of the dolls’ house on the Artlog, and had come to see it in person. It didn’t disappoint, though the doll representing Peter was face down on the dining-room rug and the one representing me looked dead in bed! I’m not quite sure about those dolls!

One of the extraordinary coincidences of Ty Isaf Bach is that just before Christmas I acquired on Abebooks a chapbook edition of Robert Aickman’s short story The Inner Room, a ghostly tale of a haunted dolls’ house. Quite a coincidence I would have thought.

a dog at our door

… and I don’t think it’s Jack!

Last night we arrived back at Ty Isaf to find the most extraordinary surprise awaiting. All unknown to us Stephanie, who has kept the place spick and span since we moved here over five years ago, together with Simon who has helped so much with the restoration of Ty Isaf, came up with the notion to build a dolls’ house version of it. Work has apparently been going on in secret for months, and though it’s still not finished they decided nevertheless to present it to us as a Christmas gift on the understanding that it’s a work-in-progress. Last night when we arrived home it was a little difficult to see the dolls’ house clearly by electric light. This morning I threw open the window-shutters to shed a little Winter sunshine on the subject.

Next to the dolls’ house was a folder charting the progress of the project.

Simon working on the stairwell. There are six turns of the stairs at Ty Isaf, all of them meticulously recreated by him in the dolls’ house. Simon spent a week sanding down the white-painted poplar wood handrail throughout the four storeys of our house in preparation for it to be French-polished, so he was certainly well qualified to build the miniature version.

Simon’s partner Jana working on the roof, every tile individually cut and glued into place. Jana also made the tiny glazing bars for the dolls’ house windows.

The dining-room painted in Farrow & Ball Terre D’Egypt to match the full-size version!

Simon restored the slate flagstones of the hallway at Ty Isaf, and he’s reproduced them perfectly for the model.

Stephanie too has been busy, collecting furnishings and decorative objects for the rooms. The sitting-room mantel-shelf boasts tiny Staffordshire dogs and a pair of candlesticks. A wood-burning stove twinkles in the aperture beneath it but as yet there are no Meri Wells tiles. I shall put that right before too long. In the hallway a side-table is laden with wrapped Christmas gifts and in the studio an easel stands awaiting a painting by me. I shall make one specially for it!

Peter and I are overwhelmed. I’m pleased that there remains enough outstanding work for me to play a part in its completion and look forward to rolling my sleeves up to help out. I should think that any children visiting us in the future are going to have the best time examining and playing with Ty Isaf Bach. (‘Ty Isaf’ means ‘Lower House’ and ‘Bach’ is the Welsh word often used as an endearment meaning ‘little’.) Later the house will stand in the new studio… when that space is ready… and I can only begin to wonder at the ways in which this glorious gift is going to play a part in my work. Already I’m beginning to get ideas that the toy, like the one in the M. R. James story The Haunted Dolls’ House, may not be quite complete until it has a ghost!

banshees roar at our eaves

I’m not sure I have the descriptive powers to do justice to how dreadful the weather has been here at Ty Isaf today. Winds are rattling the windows and clawing at the gutterings and down-pipes. In the woods around the house the trees are roaring and lashing about in a frenzy. The stream beneath our footbridge is as brown as the Orinoco in spate, foam-whipped by banshee winds shrieking through the Ystwyth Valley and tearing the last foliate tatters from skeletal trees. Jack is restless, constantly shoving himself between me and the chair-back to benefit from my heat. Outside Jazz bows his head and closes his eyes against the wind, his sleek though winter-inadequate coat jacketed against the cold. Basil needs no such artificial lagging, and stands foursquare and sturdy, head to the weather, his dense wooly coat and mane tossed in all directions. As yet neither deign to take shelter in their stable. When they do we shall know it’s time to batten the window-shutters early and light the fire at noon rather than tea-time. For now the daylight is dim and the sky bruised and sickly. The lower reaches of the paddock are gloopy with mud and our croquet lawn a swamp from rain-water ponds slow to drain away. Summer grass gives way to winter moss. Left to my own devices I’d take to my bed, Jack my toasty hot-water bottle and a thermos of lemon and ginger tea on the bedside table. Alas I have to brave the storm, pick up Peter and go to a meeting. Just the thought of that makes my knees buckle. Another couple of weeks yet to midwinter, and then the days will begin almost imperceptibly to lengthen. Role on Spring!

rose macaulay at ty isaf: part two

I don’t know whether Rose Macaulay’s biographer Sarah LeFanu ever visited Ty Isaf during her research. Her account suggests that she may have seen it from the outside and thereafter pieced together an impression of the house and household from family correspondence and Margaret Macaulay’s diaries. LeFanu writes:

On a bright day the house gleams charmingly. Friesian cows graze by the banks of the glinting silver river. In autumn the bank that rises behind Ty-Issa is a riot of gold and red. But it is not difficult to imagine what it would look like on a grey winter’s day. Then the sides of the valley crowd in upon the house, and there would be nothing to see from the windows but sodden muddy cows standing in sodden muddy fields. The nearest company for the Macaulay girls were the daughters of other professors, and even they were out of sight round the bend in the river.

The reality is that Ty Isaf enjoys an open prospect, and the hill behind enfolds and protects rather than crowds in on house. The views from all floors out over the garden, fields and river to the far side of the valley are glorious. But we know from our own research that electricity didn’t arrive at Ty Isaf until the 1960s, some fifty years after the Macaulays had gone, and before the central heating and the wood-burning stove were installed by us over 2010 – 2011, I can state unequivocally that the house was icy in winter!

LeFanu paints a picture of a life not well suited to Rose.

George (Macaulay’s father) had written to his friend Francis Jenkinson, University Librarian at Cambridge: ‘Our house is well-sheltered by hills and surrounded with woods, a very pretty place, and a paradise for birds and probably also insects.’ Which is all very well for a man who goes to the Department of English at the university every day, but the paradise for birds and insects did not hold quite the same charm for his clever, restless daughter Rose.

Every day began with family prayers, which according to cousin Dorothea were ‘most painful musically’, with Aunt Grace consistently playing wrong notes on the piano and Uncle George able to sing only three notes. ‘The oddness of those Macaulay family prayers can hardly be exaggerated.’ wrote Dorothea. Rose had just spent three years in a vigorously non-denominational institution. (Somerville College, Oxford.) She considered herself an agnostic, and was temperamentally unsympathetic to religious enthusiasm of any form.

Peter and I haven’t yet had an opportunity to extensively research the Macaulay family’s time at Ty Isaf, and we can’t say how the rooms were used by them. What we do know is that when the sealed-up window-shutters of one of the ground-floor rooms were released, hidden behind them we found an intact early shutter latch in the form of a sprung, violin-shaped catch and the bar that lowered into it, evidence perhaps of a music room.

Above: One side of the sealed window-shutters on being released, with the gilt violin catch just visible at upper left. The red oxide is the original paint colour, preserved out of sight when the shutters were long ago nailed permanently open.

The violin latch as it is today on the restored shutters.

Today the room serves as our dining-room, though it’s interesting to conjecture whether this was the space where the Macaulay family gathered for ‘prayers’ accompanied by Aunt Grace on the piano.

The room painted once again in red oxide pigment.

Rose Macaulay never completely reconciled herself to her undoubted skill as a novelist, even after she had become a highly successful and well-regarded writer. Thirty years after penning her first novel at Ty Isaf, she wrote to Frank Swinnerton, who was compiling a literary anthology: ’Oh dear oh dear. Must you really quote from that absurd, juvenile, & (I hope) forgotten book, Abbots Verney?’

Rose Macaulay. 1881 – 1958

rose macaulay at ty isaf: part one

“Take my camel dear,” said my Aunt Dot, as she climbed down from this animal on her return to High Mass.

This, it is claimed, is one of the best known opening sentences in Modern English Literature, and indeed the quote formed a question on University Challenge this week. While the contestants were unable to answer correctly and looked nonplussed, thousands of viewers across the country were undoubtedly baying the author’s name and the title of her book at their television screens. The book is the much-loved The Towers of Trebizond, and the author, Rose Macaulay. None of which would merit mentioning here but for the fact that for Rose Macaulay in the early years of the twentieth century, Ty Isaf was home.

Macaulay’s family moved here in 1901 when her father George took up the post of Professor of English Language and Literature at the University in Aberystwyth. In her 2003 biography of Rose, Sarah LeFanu refers to the house as Ty-Issa, and she writes:

Ty-Issa is just along the river from Llanfarian, a cluster of Nash designed houses that belonged to the University of Wales at Aberystwyth. These were reserved for professors and their families. Ty-Issa belonged to this group of houses but stood apart from the rest of them, further inland along a short stretch of the river, and about a mile by winding lane. The houses of Llanfarian lie on the south side of the River Ystwyth; Ty-Issa is on the north bank, round a bend in the river and out of sight of the rest. It is a square white-painted house, tucked under a steeply rising bank, with a sprawl of farm buildings beside it. It looks out over sloping fields down to the river.

‘Ty-Issa’ viewed in the Summer of 2010 from the garden.

The house as seen from a footpath on the far side of the River Ystwyth probably hasn’t changed so very much since the Macaulay’s time, though it wasn’t painted white back then.

“A very pleasing abode,” wrote Uncle Edward Conybeare, delighted as always with other people’s fortune, and went on to describe the ‘fairy woodland ravine’ that was close by. 

Well the ‘fairy woodland ravine’ is still here, probably largely unchanged since Margaret’s ‘Uncle Edward’ wrote of it, and Artlog regulars will perhaps recognise in his description the site where together with our neighbours at Craig-y-Bwch, last year we erected a footbridge to span the ravine between the two properties, so perilous had the temporary larch-poles-nailed-with-slats become that had served as our previous crossing.

(Photograph courtesy of Nick Appleton)

Elsewhere LeFanu writes of Rose and her sister Margaret:

Rose and Margaret were much in each other’s company. They would walk to Llanfarian, and then home along the riverbank. On hot days they would bathe in the pool below the bridge, hiding under the bridge when the 4.45 train passed by it.

The railway bridge has long gone, and the trains with it. A dressed stone pier, increasingly overgrown, marks the place where it once stood. But the Macaulay sisters’ deep-water bathing pool remains, and this year I swam in it for the first time, albeit unexpectedly, diving for Jack’s frisbee before it could be swept by the current along the valley and out into Cardigan Bay. Our party of house-guests stood on the high bank shouting instructions as to where it lay under the water, Peter’s sister Sally looking aghast and announcing my imminent death by drowning! I was merely aghast that I’d attracted such an audience!

Rose was twenty-three when she came to live at Ty Isaf, and already a published poet. While here she wrote her first novel, Abbots Verney, completing it in the Spring of 1906. The publisher John  Murray agreed to publish the book, though asked the fledgling novelist for a less bleak ending. Rose wrote to Margerie Venables Taylor of the publisher’s request, “Publishers of course have got you altogether in their grip. If they say you must do a thing you jolly well have got to do it.” She complied, and the book was published… rather against Rose’s better judgement as she would have preferred anonymity… under the name of R. Macaulay. It was generally assumed that the author was a man, and Rose was amused by this. She wrote “I now, it seems, go under the name of Mr R Macaulay; so in future address me so. The reviewers nearly all do!”

Abbots Verney was well reviewed by critics who described it as ‘a fine novel’, ‘a novel of great promise’ and ‘far above the common run of novels’. Despite the praise the twenty-five year old author remained unconvinced by her achievement. She wrote to Margerie ” it’s too private – sentimental, serious, I don’t know what – for me to like the idea of people I know reading it; I can never get used to it, somehow, it makes me feel so shy.”

Abbots Verney came out two months after the Macaulays had moved from Wales to Great Shelford outside Cambridge, having lived for five years at ‘Ty-Issa’.

Rose Macaulay photographed in the early 1920s